Issues Viewing KU-Band Channels on a Multi-TV Setup with DiSEqC Switch

[WilburSmith]

Hi everyone,

IÂ’m facing an issue with my current satellite setup, and IÂ’m hoping someone here might be able to offer some insight. HereÂ’s a quick breakdown of my setup and the problem:

My Setup:
Satellite Dishes:

I have a C-band dish with a dual C-band/KU-band LNBF.
I also have a separate KU-band-only dish.

DiSEqC Switch:

IÂ’m using a Pansat 4x1 DiSEqC 2.0 FTA switch.
Port 1: Connected to the C-band portion of the dual LNBF.
Port 2: Connected to the KU-band portion of the dual LNBF.
Port 3: Connected to the KU-band-only dish.

Receiver: I'm using an Edision Mio+ 4K receiver.

Signal Distribution:

A single coax cable from the dishes comes into the house and goes through a priority switch.
The TV connected to the Edision Mio+ is the master TV, while other TVs in the house are slaves.

The Issue:

I can view C-band channels (Port 1) and KU-band channels from the KU-only dish (Port 3) without any issues on the master TV. However, IÂ’m running into two problems:

KU-Band on Dual LNBF (Port 2): IÂ’ve been 100% unsuccessful in scanning or viewing KU-band channels from my dual C/KU-band dish on Port 2.

Second Room TV Issue: On the second TV, IÂ’m unable to view KU-band channels from Port 3, even though they work fine on the master TV connected to the Edision Mio+.

What IÂ’ve Tried:
IÂ’ve checked the DiSEqC settings on my Edision receiver and confirmed the port assignments (Port 1 for C-band, Port 2 for KU-band from the dual LNBF, Port 3 for KU-band from the other dish).
IÂ’ve ensured the LO frequencies are correct for both C-band and KU-band.
IÂ’ve also reversed the priority switch, but the problem persists: I canÂ’t view KU-band channels on the second TV, and IÂ’m still unable to scan KU-band satellites on Port 2 (dual LNBF).
Does anyone have any ideas on what might be causing these issues? Could it be a configuration problem, or maybe the priority switch is causing conflicts?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

 

[el bandido]

What is the make/model of priority switch?

What is the make/model of C/Ku LNB?

 

[WilburSmith]

The lnb is by Sat max and is easily found on Amazon and eBay with these specs:

C-Band Polarity: Linear (Vertical and Horizontal)
C-Band L.O.: 5150 MHz
C-Band Input: 3.4 - 4.2 GHz
C-Band Gain: 60dB
Noise Figure: 13K
Ku Band

Ku-Band Polarity: Linear (Vertical and Horizontal)
Ku-Band L.O.: 9.75 and 10.6 GHz
Ku-Band Input: 10.7 - 12.2 GHz
Ku-Band Gain: 60dB
Noise Figure: 0.2dB

The priority switch is from PerfectHD 950-2500 MHz

 

[el bandido]

Your c /ku lnbF is a very poor design that will never work properly on both bands. Some users have had limited success with c/ku lnbf, but they were using at least a 3 meter dish.

Your priority switch seems to be nothing more than an automatic a/b switch. Never did find a perfecthd or perfect hd model of priority switch, so what you are actually using is a mystery. I guess that you would need additional fta receivers as there does not seem to be a good way to run multiple tv's from a single fta receiver.


One proper way to run multiple receivers is to use dual port lnbf's, or pairs of lnbs and tie it all together with a multiswitch. A multiswitch would require another cable. It is your satellite system. Do it the way you want or the way you have to. Motorized dishes also complicate things.

 

[ArloG]

If I may. The "priority switches" I was able to find clearly state that one receiver is the master and the other is the slave. Two receivers are needed.
The master receiver being powered on takes priority of the master port. When the receiver is turned off, the slave port becomes active. If both are powered on. Master is master.
Slave is in essence disconnected.
From your description.
"A single coax cable from the dishes comes into the house and goes through a priority switch.
The TV connected to the Edision Mio+ is the master TV, while other TVs in the house are slaves."

TV's are unable to tune and demodulate signals from lnb's. Nor can they supply the 13/18 volt polarity switching, diseqc signals.

I am running two receivers. The osmio4k is the main receiver. And in the bedroom is a Zgemma H7.AC. Both are running openViX.
The Zgemma is running in "client mode" using the resources from the osmio. They connect through Ethernet. But I have a wifi dongle in the H7. And it connects to my router.

The H7 performs exactly like the mio as far as channel reception. The user interface looks exactly the same. The menus are the same.
The client mode setup (fallback receiver) in the H7 allows mapping the IP to the mio.

When the mio is powered on. Only the transponder that it is currently on is viewable on the H7. All channels on the transponder can be viewed.

When the mio is in standby mode. All transponders are viewable on the H7. When another satellite (bouquet) is selected on the H7. The dish moves.
Been awhile. Not sure if the mio is taken out of standby if it reverts to the previous satellite it was on before being put on standby.

What your mission involves would being at least getting another receiver. And another coax run. I know there are unicable setups. Heard they don't work in the USA.
Most probably a dual output c-band lnbf with either 13 volt and 18 volt ports. Or dual 13/18 v ports with a multiswitch. EB helped on absorbing multiswitches, btw. With a big hammer!
And not to bust your bubble. Never heard anything positive about the combo c/ku lnbf's.

 

[el bandido]

The design of the c/ku lnbf shown below has been around for about 15 - 20 years. When this lnbf was first introduced, a lot of sellers advertised it for c/ku reception on a 1.2 meter dish. The flat scaler ring for prime focus was even replaced at one point with a conical scalar by some sellers. This type of lnbf has been manufactured under many different names over the years, but the outcome has always been the same: It is a poor design and that is being nice about it.


Another mistake a lot of people make is they remove the nice thick scalar ring from their dish and install the flimsy scalar ring provided with the lnbf. Usually this is the wrong thing to do. Any scalar ring provided with a lnbf --or at least all that I have seen, are manufactured poorly and in a very cheap way. The thick scalar ring that was on the dish is usually correct and should not be removed in most setups.

 

[WilburSmith]

C-band and KU-band Distribution Setup & Questions

I've recently been working on distributing C-band and KU-band signals to various rooms in my house, and here’s the setup I’ve decided on so far:

Priority Switches: I currently have two priority switches installed (Working for 1 year already) and have successfully tested using a third one without issues. Although I was advised not to use more than three due to potential detriments, three switches will serve my purposes perfectly.

Dual Output C-band LNB: To optimize the setup, I plan to use a C-band LNB with dual outputs:

One output will go to the television that’s connected to my C-band set-top box and dish mover.
The second output will be wired into a switch, distributing the signal to other TVs in the house.

Set-top Box and HDMI Setup: I’ll also be connecting a separate set-top box for KU-band reception to the second HDMI port on the TV. This will allow me to access both C-band and KU-band on one TV, with the KU-band fed from a dedicated KU dish that has its own LNB.

Dish Control via Smartphone: I’ve tested controlling the dish mover with my smartphone, which works perfectly. Here’s the plan:

The first LNB output goes to the receiver linked to the dish mover.
The second output is used for selecting the satellite for other TVs.
I’ll continue using my smartphone to adjust the dish for whichever satellite I need.

Questions:

Switch Recommendation: Could you recommend the appropriate switch for my C-band application? I want to ensure I'm using the best solution for distributing the signal efficiently.

Dual Output C-band LNB: I know Titanium LNBs are often recommended, but based on the photos I’ve seen, they appear very similar to Chinese knockoffs. What am I missing? Is Titanium really superior, or should I be considering other options?

KU-band Dish Issue: Yesterday, I disconnected my KU-band dish from the DiSEqC switch, as I wasn’t receiving horizontal channels. After rewiring it directly through the priority switches, everything worked perfectly. Do you have any idea what the issue could have been? Could the DiSEqC switch be causing the problem?




C-band and KU-band Distribution Question:

To summarize my current setup:

KU-band: There’s a direct feed from the KU dish running into the house, and with three priority switches in place, all TVs that need to receive KU-band signals are working perfectly.

C-band: The C-band dish is directly wired to the television that needs it, but I’d also like to split the signal to other rooms in the house. I assume this could be done by wiring the C-band to a switch that allows me to connect both the KU-band and C-band, then run a single wire. Alternatively, I could leave the KU-band wiring as is (since it's already working) and just run additional cables for C-band to individual rooms, though that creates a bit of a mess with multiple cables.

Given these considerations, what do you think would be the best approach to handle both the KU-band and C-band signals while minimizing wiring complexity?

 

[el bandido]

About My Camera Situation:
Please understand that I am not able to provide pictures currently because my smartphone broke. I don’t use a smartphone for calls due to hearing difficulties; I only use it for my calendar, taking photographs, and sending text messages.
Wilbur Smith

Congratulations on getting your smartphone fixed!

Your c/ku lnbf is a dead item for ku band. Unless you want to torture yourself trying to get it working properly.

I got to ask: How much insertion loss does your priority switches have? Something like 3db right? The more stuff you have inline, the less signal you have. Yes, we have internal amps to absorb the loss, but the more physical things that are installed, the less signal you have. Not to mention the headache of turning receivers off and on to get the receiver you want to watch working.

To do what you want in a known-to-work way, you need the following:
Two coax cables running from the dish system into the house.
One multiswitch
Two diseqc switches
One dual C band lnbf (or a pair of lnbs)
One dual ku lnbf (or a pair of lnbs)

Tie the outputs of the c and ku lnbf's together using the diseqc switches, then install the muliswitch inside the house to feed your receivers. Simple and easy.

One of my multiswitches for ku band:



And another for c band:


I could use two diseqc switches to replace one of the multiswitches. You really need two cables coming into the house, one for 13 volts-vertical, and one for 18 volts-horizontal. The less stuff you have in the coax line, the less problems you have.

 

[ArloG]

There are pieces of the equation missing. Receivers. Unless you have European televisions with satellite input and integrated satellite tuners.
But connecting an L-band carrying coax to a television doesn't work.

Priority switch functionality is explained. Somebody has to take priority. With the presence of voltage or lack of on the master port determining if the slave port will send voltage/diseqc out to the lnb port. How many receivers do you have in your posession and are working in your system?

It is impossible to send both 13 and 18 volts over a coaxial cable to a voltage controlled lnbf. The laws of electricity say that the higher voltage will always prevail.

A multiswitch is kind of, but not, a splitter.
On the lnb side. One port always gets 13 volts and the other 18 volts. On the lnb side. Either lnb port can be switched at the receiver ports independently. 13 volts on the receiver will toggle the 13 volt lnb port, 18 volts toggle the 18 volt port. But all receiver ports can select H/V polarities without confusing, or colliding the lnb's with different voltages.

Could you give a link to the PerfectHD device please?

 

[WilburSmith]

Mr. El Bandido, I appreciate your advice on the setup. However, I need to clarify a few points. I currently have a broken smartphone, but it can still connect to Wi-Fi and launch a web browser, which is why I'm able to control my dish mover over my local area network (LAN). The phone cannot connect to a commercial network, and the camera lens has been removed for a Raspberry Pi project. I didn’t mention fixing my phone, so that assumption was incorrect.

As for my system, I’m using a total of three priority switches. They work perfectly, and I’m happy with the quality of the picture I’m getting. There are no complaints on my side regarding the technology or its performance, as I’m seeing and enjoying all my programs without any issues.

Regarding the insertion loss question, I haven’t noticed any significant signal degradation. The system is performing well within my expectations, and I have no complaints.

Now, regarding your suggested setup with the dual LNBFs, DiSEqC switches, and multiswitch, I have a couple of questions for clarification:

C-band LNBF Setup:
I understand that the dual C-band LNBF has two outputs. One coax cable from the LNBF goes to Port 1 of the DiSEqC switch, and the other goes to Port 2. This creates a single output that runs into the house (coax cable one). My question here is, are we using a dual C-band LNBF because one of the coax cables will control the dish mover through the receiver, while the second coax cable is dedicated to the televisions that aren’t connected to the dish mover?

Ku-band LNBF Setup:
I’m unclear why a dual Ku-band LNBF is necessary. In my current setup, the Ku-band LNBF connects to the dish mover directly, and a single coax cable comes into the house. Even though I use a priority switch, all my televisions can access the dish mover and control it. Since I can only operate one television at a time for moving the dish, why is a dual Ku-band LNBF required in this case?

Polarization Setup:
Are the two connections from the LNBFs (C-band and Ku-band) set up because 13 volts controls vertical polarization and 18 volts controls horizontal polarization? If this is the reason, what’s the point? In my Ku-band setup, polarization is done automatically. I understand that in the receiver, I can manually set it to either 13 volts or 18 volts, but I’m unclear on why this would be necessary in this particular setup. I’d appreciate further clarification on this.

Arlog, in response to your question about where I got the HD priority switch, you can find it on Amazon Germany. Just search for the device using the keywords “priority switch satellite,” and you should find what you're looking for.

Thanks again for all the input, and I look forward to your responses!

 

[ArloG]

I'm butting in.

Mr. El Bandido, I appreciate your advice on the setup. However, I need to clarify a few points. I currently have a broken smartphone, but it can still connect to Wi-Fi and launch a web browser, which is why I'm able to control my dish mover over my local area network (LAN). The phone cannot connect to a commercial network, and the camera lens has been removed for a Raspberry Pi project. I didn’t mention fixing my phone, so that assumption was incorrect.

No biggie. What dish mover do you use that is able to be controlled through wifi?[ Details matter./B]

As for my system, I’m using a total of three priority switches. They work perfectly, and I’m happy with the quality of the picture I’m getting. There are no complaints on my side regarding the technology or its performance, as I’m seeing and enjoying all my programs without any issues.

Wish you would have detailed the priority switches are HDMI Priority switches. Read back please. There are also priority switches for satellite receivers and the operation of, I explained it previously. Just a bity freaky how you have the chain/cascade of them hooked up.

Regarding the insertion loss question, I haven’t noticed any significant signal degradation. The system is performing well within my expectations, and I have no complaints.

All of the satellite signal amplification is done in the lnbf. Once the intermediate frequency is output the coax. Length and quality of the run. Things like how many switches are inline to the lnb's attenuate signals. So if an lnb'f needs 13/18 volts or a diseqc signal and either/both are weak. Erratic things can happen. That's why increase voltage is in the E2 tuner setup menu. But is you have no issues there. Cool.

Now, regarding your suggested setup with the dual LNBFs, DiSEqC switches, and multiswitch, I have a couple of questions for clarification:

C-band LNBF Setup:
I understand that the dual C-band LNBF has two outputs. One coax cable from the LNBF goes to Port 1 of the DiSEqC switch, and the other goes to Port 2. This creates a single output that runs into the house (coax cable one). My question here is, are we using a dual C-band LNBF because one of the coax cables will control the dish mover through the receiver, while the second coax cable is dedicated to the televisions that aren’t connected to the dish mover?

"The dish mover". A bit vague. Details. A dual output. voltage controlled lnbf is really designed for either a receiver with 2 lnb inputs. Or the second output could be run to another receiver. In the case of an lnbf that has two ports. One dedicated for vertical and the other dedicated for horizontal polarization. I have one of those. You would use a "voltage controlled multiswitch" (kudos EB) But my Titanium Satellite C2W dual output lived it's life using one port. Until it died and I switched to the other. And. Your wiring description is a bit iffy. In the case of a diseqc or usals mover. You simply daisy-chain the coax. A usals mover needs no separate coax. A diseqc mover requires motor power and sensor cable. Linear actuator. A fancy trailer jack. There should be an in and out port on the usals).

Ku-band LNBF Setup:
I’m unclear why a dual Ku-band LNBF is necessary. In my current setup, the Ku-band LNBF connects to the dish mover directly, and a single coax cable comes into the house. Even though I use a priority switch, all my televisions can access the dish mover and control it. Since I can only operate one television at a time for moving the dish, why is a dual Ku-band LNBF required in this case?

The priority switch again. Anyway you can draw a map of your setup. Scribbling on paper is sometimes the best way to describe things. How your "priority switch" is wired in the system is foggy at the least. Are you using the HDMI ou from the receiver into your switch(es)?

Polarization Setup:
Are the two connections from the LNBFs (C-band and Ku-band) set up because 13 volts controls vertical polarization and 18 volts controls horizontal polarization? If this is the reason, what’s the point? In my Ku-band setup, polarization is done automatically. I understand that in the receiver, I can manually set it to either 13 volts or 18 volts, but I’m unclear on why this would be necessary in this particular setup. I’d appreciate further clarification on this.

Read again. A voltage controlled lnb with two ports into one coax is kind of unneeded. Unless you want one port for a backup in case the other pukes. A dual output lnbf would be good for a dual port receiver. Needing a separate cable for each input. Then you could watch one channel and record on the other.
EB could come up with scenarios where a person would us only 13 or 18 volts. In 2024, I would say it's not really needed. But still there. 99% of consumer lnb's are voltage or voltage/22 kHz controlled.

Arlog, in response to your question about where I got the HD priority switch, you can find it on Amazon Germany. Just search for the device using the keywords “priority switch satellite,” and you should find what you're looking for.

Yeahhhh. "HD Priority switch" is a bit different than "priorityHD". Because the latter is a brand description. How's about you just find what you're using. Highlight the link. And slap it here and make life simple? Works for me! I have several HDMI auto switches. With port 1 being the master. On a pc sharing a single monitor HDMI port. The one hooked to port 1 takes priority over port 2. You can press a button on one to switch ports. The other need the primary (priority) pc to either be asleep or any way to kill HDMI on that port to be able to see the second pc. I tried using one with a fire TV and Roku on an old Sony with 1 HDMI port. It was a trip to say the least. Scratch us a diagram. Even if it's on a napkin. A few beers and a pizza at the local watering hole has brought home some very interesting "conceptual" brainstorming to look at the next day.


Thanks again for all the input, and I look forward to your responses!

Just had to ask. I spell well, just prone to typo's.

 

[el bandido]

The people that have the least amount of problems in satellite antenna systems usually have the minimum amount of parts that are needed to run the system. At the moment, I run 3 fta receivers at the same time on my satellite dish system which consists of 2 motorized dishes and one fixed dish. Only two switches are needed to support 4 lnbs. FTA satellite is a Hobby. A person may set their system up as they want. My particular system runs for years without doing much of anything to it. It is designed to work.

Adding parts that are not needed increases loss and also creates extra places for problems to develop. Usually, the less parts a fta satellite system has, the more reliable it is. Some of us do not understand loss or claim loss does not pertain to their system.

Wilbur has these two problems and is satisfied with his system, except for these two problems.

KU-Band on Dual LNBF (Port 2): I’ve been 100% unsuccessful in scanning or viewing KU-band channels from my dual C/KU-band dish on Port 2.

Second Room TV Issue: On the second TV, I’m unable to view KU-band channels from Port 3, even though they work fine on the master TV connected to the Edision Mio+.
.

The first problem has already been discussed. You have a c/ku lnb that is of a poor design. Also, your mesh dish may not support ku or be in too poor of shape to support ku. Either way, you have no ku band on this dish with the parts you are using. You may try adjusting the lnb if you like being tortured. You might get ku to work only to find the c band signal died or is severely compromised. Been there done that!

No ku channels from port 3 is probably a loss issue. It's as simple as that. Most likely, your ku channels are poor quality as compared to your c band channels. This would explain why you lose ku and not c.You can't inject loss by splitting the signal three times and expect good things to happen, especially when the loss is in the form of a splitter. Here is a thread on the same subject:
https://www.satellites.co.uk/forums/threads/smart-priority-switches.169519/

This satellite antenna stuff is not hard. But lots of people make it complicated to the point where the system does not work as designed, is unreliable, or where the system has problems.

 

[el bandido]

You can't put three of these things inline with ANY antenna system and expect good things to happen.


This is why we use pictures Wilbur, so people will know what we are talking about.

 

[el bandido]

Diagrams of what you have or what you are trying to do can be easily made with free tools or as Arlo said, even a napkin will do.

Shown below is how I would wire a c and ku dish with two cables going into the building to feed up to 4 (or more) receivers. The receivers can stay on all the time, however, some dual lnbf's are made so cheaply that the ports interfere with each other. A pair of lnb's does not usually have this problem. At worst case, a receiver may need to be turned off or stay on the same polarity as another receiver when lnbf's are used in a system like this.



A .pdf file of the same drawing is attached. What works well for one person may not apply to another person, but there are sane and insane ways of doing things.

FTA people as a whole are a cheap bunch of people. Most of them are wanting something for free to begin with and don't want to spend any money. They freak out when you tell them they need to spend a couple hundred dollars or more to fix a problem. Lots of time they run from forum to forum not wanting to face reality. At other times, they will spend 500 dollars over a period of time because they didn't want to spend 200 dollars to begin with.

Set this stuff up in a sane manner. Purchase what is needed where it is needed. Purchase quality parts, Not China Junk. This is simple enough to do, but looking at the forums over time, you will see a lot of people not wanting to do it.

 

[el bandido]

Switches switches switches....Everything in FTA satellite is solved by installing that there switch! And if one switch worked good, then by Joe two switches are even better! Not so fast....

Let's look at this switch thing one more time to really understand it. And remember, what is a good solution for one system may not be so good for another system. But always keep switches in a sane order where they work good with each other and do not interfere with anything.

Draw a diagram of what you want to do. Or if you have a great Einstein like mind, commit the diagram to memory. A switch diagram was supplied in the last post. Next, put the switches together and see how they work or If they work.

Shown below is a 2.0 diseqc switch installed after the multiswitch and feeding the vertical lnb. This system is tested in the system and works.


Next, a Chieta diseqc switch was installed and it also works. But look carefully at the picture below. Vertical voltage is down to 10.5 volts. A little bit more loss in voltage will cause the lnb to quit. Also note the multiswitch is not powered.


A powered multiswitch would solve the voltage dilemma. A powered multiswitch may cost 50 dollars or a bit less "New" for a decent one complete with power supply. A non-powered multiswitch will cost maybe 15-20 dollars for a new one. Now what is the FTA penny pincher going to uy? He doesn't check voltage, current draw, or compatibility, so he will buy a Used multiswitch for 5 dollars if one is available.

Some things to remember in setting up FTA antenna systems:
Use good quality parts if possible
Understand switch compatibilities and switch capabilities
Know where your losses are in both signal and voltage. Try to eliminate or minimize losses.
Use a good quality coax cable and cable connectors.

The coax cable that is sold in Lowe's, Home Depot, and other places for twenty dollars a roll is Junk! Yes, it will work, but it may also give problems in a short period of time. Problems that junk cabling provides can be deceptive and hard to decipher. Good cable is a reputable brand and will have solid copper center. Do not get copper coated steel! Quad shield cable is a waste of money for most installations and is also harder to work with

Pr-existing coax cabling or cabling that is 15-20 years old should be replaced That Direct TV cable may look all right., but there is no telling what condition it is in. Pre-existing coax cable from a 1990's c band dish install should be removed immediately and disposed of regardless of where it is.

In FTA antenna systems, it's the little things that add up and make or break a system. People throw this stuff together then wonder why it does not work. Don't be one of them.

 

[ArloG]

Well. Didn't you get all riled up! The question is. Willie or won't-e? Haven't seen him hit the other forums forums yet.
I have not personally here checked voltage drop on the Chieta multiswitch in my box outside. Touching it is just a touch warm in one spot. The diseqc 1.0 is cool though.
I took a UPS out to the dish and hooked up my other receiver to a multiswitch port with a pc monitor. Pretty slick. Smart phone app to move the dish with the osmio/asc1.
I'll stand by using less receiver dependent peripherals. Before, my mio could almost keep a cup of coffee warm. Now? Not a chance. Cool equals long life and a happy wall wart.

Not hijacking the post. I was wondering how I could get this connected and into my home over one or two cables and two receivers to run 4 TV's.
Hah. Keep your feathers counted......in case of emergencies!

 

[el bandido]

Excessive tuner heat can be caused by tuner drivers, bad or poor coax cabling or excessive current load. Most fta receivers can supply 300 milliamps of current from the tuner for years without any problems. Installing a powered multiswitch will usually reduce tuner heat, but may also only mask the real problem of why the tuner was getting hot to begin with.

You can add switches or whatever else you need to run your system as long as the signal quality is not effected or as long as the voltage does not drop below a point where the lnb cannot be powered. Lots of times on a marginal signal, you can remove switches from the system and the marginal signal will become usable. So yeah...installing stuff between the receiver and lnb does make a difference.

 

[ArloG]

Whilst we wait patiently for Prince William of Notting-'um to retuhnnn.....

Multiswitches with either 4 or 6 in, X out. 13/18 and 13/18. Or 13/Terr/18 and 13/Terr/18.
I saw one powered multiswitch that had diseqc 2.0 on the label. The others, not so much.
How are the two individual input groups selected in software?
Would 22 kHz be able to be passed through to the lnb ports?
Could it be considered that they are all diseqc 2.0? Like, it took me a few to find that the Chieta was diseqc 1.0.

 

[el bandido]

Provide a link or picture to a powered multiswitch that has diseqc 2.0 on the label.

Provide a link or picture to a diseqc switch that has the words multi switch on it.

A multiswitch uses voltage to switch. Usually a multiswitch does not block or interfere with diseqc or 22KHz switch commands.

Enigma2 receivers support 1.0 and 1.1 diseqc switches. In some instances, 1.2 diseqc control may be used to control a switch in enigma2 receivers.

Usually diseqc 2.0 switches are backwards compatible and may be controlled using the 1.1 diseqc setting.



Keep it simple and neat. You only have three lnbs. You don't need much at all to control them. Keep it simple!

 

[ArloG]

Provide a link or picture to a powered multiswitch that has diseqc 2.0 on the label.

Provide a link or picture to a diseqc switch that has the words multi switch on it.

A multiswitch uses voltage to switch. Usually a multiswitch does not block or interfere with diseqc or 22KHz switch commands.

Enigma2 receivers support 1.0 and 1.1 diseqc switches. In some instances, 1.2 diseqc control may be used to control a switch in enigma2 receivers.

Usually diseqc 2.0 switches are backwards compatible and may be controlled using the 1.1 diseqc setting.



Keep it simple and neat. You only have three lnbs. You don't need much at all to control them. Keep it simple!

Mission accomplished. Easy now. Just wondering what method would be used in a receiver to switch between the different inputs by each receiver.
Gotcha' didn't I?